I grew up in a beach town, and I surfed—a lot. For some unexplainable reason, at about 20, I just stopped. About a year ago, I just felt like starting again, so I did. Now, I can’t seem to get enough.
I like riding funky boards. Here’s my current quiver…
The board on the left is a 7′2″ Russell Slim Jim. It’s super fun for getting groovy in waist to head-high surf.
The board on the right is a 5′4″ Almond Secret Menu. It has a quad fin box and it’s flat as a… board, which makes it fast as all hell. I ride this on anything from tiny waves up to head high. Overhead it starts to get a little sketchy.
I rotate between the two boards depending on the conditions and what I feel like riding for the day.
My next board will be some kind of single fin that can handle bigger days well. I’m also lusting for a displacement hull.
There is only one good picture of me surfing. Here it is…
That’s all for now.